Days 1-3 of my Peru Trip:
A few weeks before my trip, I got an email from GAP Adventures giving me the final details of what I needed to know before I left. One of the things that was included in the email was a link to a forum on the GAP website where you can, I don't know, talk about trip stuff. I like Internet forums about as much as I like waking up in the morning, which is to say not at all, so I avoided the link until the week before my trip. But then I figured what's the harm in checking it out. And sure enough, there were posts from people going on the Project Choquequirao trip with me. The main thing I noticed was that everyone posting seemed to be female. And here's the part where I should make a joke like, "All women and one man-- ME! Now those are the kind of odds I like, if you know what I mean. And I think you do. Hubba Hubba." But I'm not going to make those jokes... um, except for that one. In fact, let's just get this out of the way right now. It turns out there were 8 women and 2 men (including myself) on the trip, which is not atypical, apparently, since women tend to feel safer on group trips rather than by themselves in foreign countries, for good reason. And while I made plenty of "Hubba Hubba" type joking remarks with the girls, I honestly wasn't looking for or interested in romance, since the whole romance thing was one of the things I was taking a vacation from. So if you're looking for a story involving whispered sweet nothings and heaving bosoms and me unleashing my imprisoned pecs from the cruel trappings of a tight T-shirt, that ain't gonna happen here. But anyway, I posted on the forum, and then exchanged emails with some of the people coming on the trip, and most of them were pretty much like me-- late 20s, early 30s, single, at some kind of transition period in their lives. So, it was nice that in a lot of ways we were in similar situations.
My flight was arriving in Lima pretty late, around 11 PM, but I was still going to try to meet two of the women, Margaret and Vel, for drinks that night. The rest of the people, as far as we knew, were coming in the next day. But my flight got delayed two hours in Atlanta, and I didn't get into Lima until 1 in the morning. I had to wake up at 3:30 the morning before in Colorado Springs, so it was turning out to be an incredibly long day for me. I stumbled around the Lima airport with my incredibly heavy bags, changed some U.S. currency to Peruvian soles, and found a taxi to take me to my hotel. The taxi driver didn't speak English, but I had the address of the hotel written on a piece of paper, which was all that he needed. We got to the hotel, and I tipped the taxi driver 10 soles, which is about 3 bucks. I found out the next day at the meeting with our group leader that pretty much every one who interacts with you in Peru, from taxi drivers to bellhops to waiters to bathroom attendants, is supposed to be tipped, although 10 soles was overly generous for the taxi driver. Anyway, I stumbled into the hotel and got my room key. Margaret was supposed to leave a note for me telling me where they went for drinks, but the person at the desk didn't mention anything about a note, and I was going to sleep note or no note, so I didn't care much. The bellhop took my bags up, and I tried in my half-asleep state to explain to him in Spanglish that all I had were 50 and 100 soles notes, so I didn't have any change to tip him with. The bellhop picked up my gist and said that that was OK, he could make change for me. I think I ended up giving him 5 soles.
The next day I slept in till noon. When I finally got up, I went down to the desk to check to see if there were any notes for me. There weren't. Then I checked to see what room Margaret was staying in. I was going to give her a call and see if she and Vel wanted to go out for lunch with me. But they had nobody staying there under Margaret's name. I didn't know Vel's last name, so I couldn't get them to check for her. They also asked me if I was supposed to check out today. No, I'm staying one more night I said. **Foreshadowing alert** Ahem, so I went out to lunch by myself. After lunch, I walked around the neighborhood, Miraflores, for a while, and got back to the hotel around 3. I read my book, Thomas Pynchon's Against the Day for about an hour, and then I got tired again so I took a nap. At 6, my room phone rang. It was the front desk, and they said I had to be at a meeting at another hotel for my tour group. I had to leave now. RIGHT NOW, the front desk person said. I'm still half asleep. 5 minutes give me? I asked. Yes, 5 minutes, right now, she said. Well OK. So I hurried up and threw my stuff in my bag and ran downstairs. The front desk person called me a taxi, and I went to the other hotel to meet with the rest of my tour group.
What had happened was that because I had arrived a day earlier than the tour started, GAP had to book me in a different hotel for the first night; there was no room in the hotel where we were to meet up with the rest of the group. And I had misunderstood the instructions that I was supposed to change hotels after the first night. And my original hotel, the one I stayed in the first night, was supposed to give me a welcome letter from GAP which explained this. So, basically, I was confused and the hotel dropped the ball. I ended up running upstairs to where our group was meeting with bags flung over every arm and the whole group applauding, since they had been waiting for me for a while, I'm guessing, and many of them knew from my emails before the trip that this was my first time outside the U.S., so they were likely worried that I had taken a wrong turn on my way to lunch and ended up being a gringo in the wrong neighborhood. Anyway, that wasn't the case of course, but it didn't matter since I was there. I sat down and met everyone. I won't go through all their names here, but I will mention that our group leader was Martin, an incredibly nice, patient German guy. Margaret and Vel were both there and had successfully done the whole changing hotels thing that I completely flubbed. Also, there was one other guy there, Dean, which made me a little disappointed. Not because of the whole Hubba Hubba reason, but because I would have to share a room, since they pair up guys and girls in rooms, and if I was the only guy, I think I would have gotten a single. Dean turned out to be a blast, though, so it was well worth sharing a room. At the meeting, we discussed our plans for the next few days. The next morning, we were going to be flying out to Cusco, the ancient capitol of the Incan empire and starting point for modern-day hikes to Machu Picchu. We would have a free day in Cusco after we landed, and then we would spend the next two days at a drop-in center for Cusco street children (we found out later that none of the children actually live on the streets, but all of them come from very poor families and they usually have to spend many hours a day working to make money for their families).
So, the next day we flew out to Cusco. When we got there and after we checked in to our hotel, Martin took us to the main city square, where a street celebration was taking place. We asked Martin what the celebration was for, and he told us that there's always a celebration for something going on. Or a protest. But basically, there's always people in the street doing stuff. The city square was surrounded by old Spanish churches and touristy restaurants with balconies and a statue right in the middle. The dancers in the celebration were everywhere, and at one point I had to jump out of the way so I wouldn't get run over by them. We walked around the square for a while and had lunch. After lunch, Margaret, Dean, Carrie, Anna, and I decided to just walk around the whole town, or as much as we could explore before dinner. We ended up in a back alleyway that went up, up, and up some more. We kept on following it up as far as it would go, figuring that we would end up some place interesting and/or some place with a wonderful view of the whole city. We were far from the touristy section of the city, and we were surrounded on both sides by dingy houses and little hole-in-the-wall businesses. We were the only gringoes in sight, but it wasn't scary. I should point out here that I was never actually scared of getting mugged, pickpocketed, or anything else the whole time I was in Peru. The street vendors were pushy, but otherwise the locals were all very nice or left you alone. Also, I was almost always with a group of people when I walked around. Anyway, the alley eventually led to a dirt road, and we followed the dirt road up for a little while, but it didn't seem to go anywhere promising, so we stopped and took some pictures and walked back to the hotel.
Update: You can see all of my Peru pictures here and here.